Re: EV kits on S.F.Craigslist

I've looked over the kaylor kit and if I had that kit my car would be running. The shunt motor isn't a jack heintz g-29, but with same power specs. All the surplus places that sold both motors are out of stock. I know surplus center and Groban. Here is a still working link for nostalgic purposes. http://www.groban.com/generator-lvl1.html. The kalylor kit comes with a support bearing that connects to spline shaft on the inside and on the outside the other part bolts to the flywheel. Very nicely done in converting a motor into another purpose other the airplane use. For more pics you can try looking at http://members.aol.com/BohanDesign/evkits/bearcatev/default.htm , which probably just the kaylor kit resold for a little profit. The jack heint G-29 on the other hand as sold by e-volks has given me lots of wobble trouble. Mainly because they quit supporting it. Though it did launch their business. The motor has a large splined hollow shaft that comes out of the motor a little bit. Then there is a another inner shaft that goes inside the hollow shaft. The bearing on the motor is in the rear of the motor. This is the end that is covered by a flange for cooling. The inner shaft is made so that it can only go into inner shaft one way. and then will mate internally. It has grooves on the inner and outer shaft so that it has to be rotated just right to go all the way in. Also, on the outside of the inner shaft there is a groove all the way around it and this is where a rubber boot (bushing) goes. This bushing is slightly larger then then inner shaft and then the drive piece slides from rear of inner shaft all the way to this rubber boot. Since this drive part is smaller then the boot it won't slide off the inner shaft. The whole apparatus is slid back into the motor. Finally, the lock nut is tightened in the rear of the motor and this tightens the front of the motor where the coupler would be. On my motor the inner shaft wobbles in the rear of the motor. On the front of the motor the outer shaft is fine and does not wobble. However, then inner shaft does wobble inside the hollow outer shaft. A solution done by evolks was to make a mold of the rubber bushing, then pour molten brass and duplicate it. Next it was sliced in two and this replaced the rubber bushing. E-volks doesn't have anymore, so I'll have to make this part myself. I am also thinking about drilling three set screws and putting red loctite around the outer splined shaft and coupler. Since space is an issue a tool might be able to reach to tighten set scews, but sure it can be done. Plus, the flywheel will need to be lightened and balanced.

cowtown wrote:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/car/674424757.html

An 800A contactor and "Regen braking with down shifting" and  
"remanufactured and modified jet fighter plane generator used as  
motor" sounds like an EV made in the 70's that avoids using that same  
era's more silicon-heavy controls (SCRs, Triodes, etc). Any idea how  
smoothly a VW-with-jet-starter/generator conversion can be driven in  
everyday use, how efficiently they run when compared to current motors  
and PWM controllers, and what is their comparative durability?

Would a "cutting-edge' Curtis SepEx controller, say 600A in the 36-84V  
range, make this older style conversion any more efficient, or would  
it also need a motor more specific to the job?





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