New job is a little too far

[Peter VanDerWal]

It depends on what your goals are, if you are trying to reduce emissions,
then even with the CARB version you will still produce way more pollution
with the generator than you will with your ICE, even if you only use it on
the return trip.

If your goal is to reduce gas consumption, then maybe.  Hard to say for sure.

Since "reasonable" is purely subjective, the only person who can determine
if this is a "reasonable compromise" is you.

> I can make it to work but I come up short on the return trip :-(  I
> confirmed this with my ice, to work I averaged 25mpg, on the return trip I
> was averaging 15.5mpg. It's all up hill and I need about 20% more power to
> make it home. I was thinking about picking up one of those Honda EU300i
> generators and firing it up when I leave. Has anybody tried this with a
> PFC20? I know it's not the best solution, but I think I'd be doing better
> than the ice, I'd be buying the CARB compliant version of the generator,
> and it would fit in nicely with my camper when I'm not usuing it in the
> truck. Is this a reasonable compromise or should I just wait for my
> Aptera?
>
> TiM
>
> '61 Corvair Rampside
> http://www.evalbum.com/656
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
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[TiM M-3]

I can make it to work but I come up short on the return trip :-(  I confirmed this with my ice, to work I averaged 25mpg, on the return trip I was averaging 15.5mpg. It's all up hill and I need about 20% more power to make it home. I was thinking about picking up one of those Honda EU300i generators and firing it up when I leave. Has anybody tried this with a PFC20? I know it's not the best solution, but I think I'd be doing better than the ice, I'd be buying the CARB compliant version of the generator, and it would fit in nicely with my camper when I'm not usuing it in the truck. Is this a reasonable compromise or should I just wait for my Aptera?

TiM

'61 Corvair Rampside
http://www.evalbum.com/656


     

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[EVDL Administrator]

On 17 May 2008 at 11:38, TiM M wrote:

> I was thinking about picking up one of those Honda EU300i generators
> and firing it up when I leave.

Looks like I need to get the EVDL FAQ online and make sure it has something
about APUs.  This topic comes up pretty close to monthly on this list.

Sorry to say CARB compliant stationary engines are still appreciably dirtier
than an automotive ICE.  Fuel efficiency will also be lower.  If you can't
get enough battery capacity into your EV to make the trip, you'll be cleaner
to drive a recent, well-maintained ICEV and save the EV for trips where it's
more suitable.

I acknowledge that some EV hobbyists are not concerned with the emissions
cleanliness issue, and have other reasons for their interest in EVs, so this
may not apply to you.

David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator

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[Peter Shabino]

I know the small portable generators suck for emisions. How about the larger desil based versions (assuming the newer ones have emission controls on them) Was thinking about building a generator trailer at some point to extend range to the 200+ point so I could go to some of the EV meets.
 
Later,
Peter



> From: evpost@...> To: ev@...> Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 16:23:07 -0400> Subject: Re: [EVDL] New job is a little too far> > On 17 May 2008 at 11:38, TiM M wrote:> > > I was thinking about picking up one of those Honda EU300i generators> > and firing it up when I leave. > > Looks like I need to get the EVDL FAQ online and make sure it has something > about APUs. This topic comes up pretty close to monthly on this list.> > Sorry to say CARB compliant stationary engines are still appreciably dirtier > than an automotive ICE. Fuel efficiency will also be lower. If you can't > get enough battery capacity into your EV to make the trip, you'll be cleaner > to drive a recent, well-maintained ICEV and save the EV for trips where it's > more suitable.> > I acknowledge that some EV hobbyists are not concerned with the emissions > cleanliness issue, and have other reasons for their interest in EVs, so this > may not apply to you.> > David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA> EVDL Administrator> > = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = => EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = > Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not > reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my > email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = => > > _______________________________________________> For subscription options, see> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
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[Richard Acuti]

Tim, that EV is just too cool. Especially too cool to give up driving to work now. What's your employer like? Can you negotiate charging at work? Offer to pay for an outlet and meter to reimburse the company? Park nearby someowhere that WILL let you charge up? For a "parking" fee perhaps? Take a page from Bob Rice's book and bang on some doors.

Perhaps there's a slighty longer, yet not as hilly route home? I drive to the train station one way, and home a different way because it's nearly all down hill even though it's a mile longer. GPS and Google Earth/Google Maps are a great way to analyze the terrain.

Last ditch effort, I recommend starting the Honda a few hours before you start home, not trying to drive with it running. I mean, yes I know you can charge and discharge at the same time, but it just seems safer to charge it while stationary.  There's got to be a way to mount and hide that little Honda in your truck, yet let it exhaust to the outside while you're still working in your office.  You could either fire it up after you arrive, and shut it down before you take your lunch or start the charge right after lunch and shut it down before you take to the highway. Unless you work in the ghetto, where people steal your gas or your catalytic converter like we have around here. Can you imaging the confusion when they open up my fuel door and see the plug? Lol...

As far as "will it work?" I don't see why not, just don't overload the Honda. Turn down the charger amps to match the load to the generator. I just used a 2000i today at my reserve unit. I can't believe how quiet and clean they are, especially in the "eco" mode. If you're really worried, contact Rudman. He built the thing. Running the Honda isn't the optimal solution but I still think it's better than giving up on the EV, especially if you have another use for the genny in your camper.

Good luck and let us know what happens. I really want to know!
______________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 11:38:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: TiM M
Subject: [EVDL] New job is a little too far
To: ev@...:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I can make it to work but I come up short on the return trip :-( I confirmed this with my ice, to work I averaged 25mpg, on the return trip I was averaging 15.5mpg. It's all up hill and I need about 20% more power to make it home. I was thinking about picking up one of those Honda EU300i generators and firing it up when I leave. Has anybody tried this with a PFC20? I know it's not the best solution, but I think I'd be doing better than the ice, I'd be buying the CARB compliant version of the generator, and it would fit in nicely with my camper when I'm not usuing it in the truck. Is this a reasonable compromise or should I just wait for my Aptera?

TiM '61 Corvair Rampside
http://www.evalbum.com/656
________________________________

Rich A.
Maryland
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/371.html
http://patriotfuel.blogspot.com/




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[TiM M-3]

Good news! I made it home from work with 36% charge remaining. Woo woo, and I think I set my zero point to 80%. I need to dig out my e-meter book and make sure I have it set correctly. My 144V pack was sagging to 136V under a 200A draw towards the end. Not too bad. I found a web page that lets you select a route and it gives you the elevation gain or loss. You can try different roads and routes to find the least hills. I was impressed. The URL is:

http://www.mapmyrun.com


It's designed for runners, you have to make sure you check the follow roads button or it will assume you're traveling across country. You just add a point at each intersection where you need to turn. Anyway, I'm happy. It takes a bit longer than the ICE, but I can do it for awhile.

TiM



     

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[Rick Beebe]

TiM M wrote:
> Good news! I made it home from work with 36% charge remaining. Woo
> woo, and I think I set my zero point to 80%. I need to dig out my
> e-meter book and make sure I have it set correctly. My 144V pack was
> sagging to 136V under a 200A draw towards the end. Not too bad. I
> found a web page that lets you select a route and it gives you the
> elevation gain or loss. You can try different roads and routes to
> find the least hills. I was impressed. The URL is:
>
> http://www.mapmyrun.com

Useful. Now I see I have to design for an 8.96 mile trip home that
climbs from 15 to 396 feet with 300 feet of that in the last 4 miles.
Obviously the trip from home to work is easier.

--Rick

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[Bill Dennis-2]

What's good to use to make a watertight connection where 2/0 cable
enters a plastic junction box?  I stopped at Home Depot today, but they
didn't have anything appropriate.

Thanks.

Bill Dennis

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[Peter Hartman-2]

You can get heat shrink tubing that should to the job. Mcmaster has it.
onesojourner

On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 10:31 PM, Bill Dennis <wjdennis@...> wrote:

> What's good to use to make a watertight connection where 2/0 cable
> enters a plastic junction box?  I stopped at Home Depot today, but they
> didn't have anything appropriate.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

--
www.onesojourner.org
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[Roger Stockton]

 Bill Dennis wrote,

> What's good to use to make a watertight connection where 2/0
> cable enters a plastic junction box?  I stopped at Home Depot
> today, but they didn't have anything appropriate.

I just made a parts run to Home Depot this evening as well (also working on my EV ;^)... I picked up another of just what you need.

Have a look in the electrical section, on the shelves near the lengths of grey PVC  non-metallic conduit.  What you need is a 3/4" compression fitting.  It comes in a plastic bag with about a half dozen different rubber grommets to seal around the cable.  There are two different styles for the body of the fitting, one is threaded on both sides (so one side can thread into a fitting or threaded hole on the box, or can poke through a hole and be secured with a nut), the other is threaded on one side for the compression nut and is intended to be cemented into a 3/4" PVC conduit or fitting.

You will need to ream the hole in the compression nut slightly to get it to slide over the 2/0 cable, but it needs only a bit.

Cheers,

Roger.

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[Roland Wiench]

Hello Bill,

It is best to use a cable connector, that is like a box connector, but it
has a taper rubber seal that is put under compression with a screw on
bushing.  The threaded end that goes into the box knock out hole, has a
o-ring between the box and the box connector.

They look something like a hydraulic hose fitting, but you can get these box
connectors in black plastic.

I like to use the Thomas and Bette's industrial products, which are marine
and aircraft quality.

Some times I have use a Aeroquip lite weight aluminum hose fittings that
works good as a box connector. You can gets these from some hydralic shops.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dennis" <wjdennis@...>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@...>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 9:31 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Watertight Connection

> What's good to use to make a watertight connection where 2/0 cable
> enters a plastic junction box?  I stopped at Home Depot today, but they
> didn't have anything appropriate.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

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[Doug Weathers]

On May 19, 2008, at 9:31 PM, Bill Dennis wrote:

> What's good to use to make a watertight connection where 2/0 cable
> enters a plastic junction box?

I believe you're looking for something called a "cable gland".  You
want it liquid-tight or watertight or waterproof or whatever the
manufacturer calls it.  Try searching for "cable gland liquid".

I think this one will fit 2/0 cable:

<http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0715188>

If you've got a Fastenal nearby, check it out.  If they don't have it
in stock they'll order it for local pickup, no shipping costs.  I have
a strange and probably unhealthy fascination with that store.

Digikey has a bunch of cable glands.  No idea how to sort out which one
you need, sorry.  They have live online help, though, and it's actually
helpful.  Mouser seems to have cable glands and live online help too.

> I stopped at Home Depot today, but they
> didn't have anything appropriate.

Perhaps an actual electrical supply place will have some cable glands
in stock.  Check your yellow pages.  Bring along a small chunk of your
2/0 so you can show it to them.

Online electrical supply places like Graybar.com will have cable
glands, too.

I just had a thought.  Hang on.... yes, my PFC-20 has a couple of cable
glands on it.  Nice aluminum ones, too.  Brand name of APPLETON.  Web
site <http://www.appletonelec.com>... they call it a "liquidtight
strain relief".  Part number CG-62100 should fit 2/0.

>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
>

That was fun - you're welcome.  Hope it helps.

--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
http://www.gdunge.com/

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[joe-22]

Try a watertight cord connector, either the malleable ones or a plastic one.
I use OZ Gedney, if I can get them.

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: joe@...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dennis" <wjdennis@...>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@...>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 8:31 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Watertight Connection

> What's good to use to make a watertight connection where 2/0 cable
> enters a plastic junction box?  I stopped at Home Depot today, but they
> didn't have anything appropriate.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Dennis
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
> --
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> Checked by AVG.
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> 5/20/2008 6:45 AM
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[R. Matt Milliron]

On Mon, 19 May 2008 21:31:25 -0600, you wrote:

>What's good to use to make a watertight connection where 2/0 cable
>enters a plastic junction box?  I stopped at Home Depot today, but they
>didn't have anything appropriate.

  I have used these in my car:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=75348-15527-02-55793&lpage=none

They have a rubber boot inside that seals with compression.

  R. M. Milliron

1981 Jet Electrica (Ford Escort)  
http://evalbum.austinev.org/702
http://hitorqueelectric.com/gallery/v/custom_motors/Hack+vs+Husted/

  This machine had been garaged for 17 years.  I have
upgraded and made it operable.  Tabitha, my daughter,
named it, "Pikachu".  It's yellow and black, electric
and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
 


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[Richard Acuti]

Hey Tim,Glad to hear that it might work out for you. Better let up on the hammer just a bit though. I show 138 volts as the 80% DoD point for you. Keep working the route and the traffic pattern. How's this going to work out for you in the winter when capacity is reduced?________________________________Message: 29Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 20:10:43 -0700 (PDT)From: TiM M <mr_tim34@...>Subject: Re: [EVDL] New job is a little too farTo: ev@...: <3804.80186.qm@...>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-asciiGood news! I made it home from work with 36% charge remaining. Woo woo, and I think I set my zero point to 80%. I need to dig out my e-meter book and make sure I have it set correctly. My 144V pack was sagging to 136V under a 200A draw towards the end. Not too bad. I found a web page that lets you select a route and it gives you the elevation gain or loss. You can try different roads and routes to find the least hills. I was impressed. The URL is:http://www.mapmyrun.com<http://www.mapmyrun.com/>It's designed for runners, you have to make sure you check the follow roads button or it will assume you're traveling across country. You just add a point at each intersection where you need to turn. Anyway, I'm happy. It takes a bit longer than the ICE, but I can do it for awhile.TiM________________________________Rich A.Marylandhttp://www.austinev.org/evalbum/371.htmlhttp://patriotfuel.blogspot.com/
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[storm connors]

Tim,
If you are only sagging to 136v pulling 200 amps up hill, I think you
are doing well. I have been trying unsuccessfully to keep above 120v
coming up the hill to my house. I have to reduce the amperage draw and
speed. It takes 50-75 amps just to keep the car moving and still the
voltage can drop below 100. If I let it sit for a while the voltage
will go above 140, so I don't think I have drained them.

On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 11:10 PM, TiM M <mr_tim34@...> wrote:
> Good news! I made it home from work with 36% charge remaining. Woo woo, and I think I set my zero point to 80%. I need to dig out my e-meter book and make sure I have it set correctly. My 144V pack was sagging to 136V under a 200A draw towards the end. Not too bad. I found a web page that lets you select a route and it gives you the elevation gain or loss. You can try different roads and routes to find the least hills. I was impressed. The URL is:
>
> http://www.mapmyrun.com
>

>
> TiM
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
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>

--
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1059
http://stormselectric.blogspot.com/
Storm

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[TiM M-3]

Re: [EVDL] New job is a little too far
To: <ev@...>
Message-ID: <BLU142-W2026F2683CAEF50B5DBF9396C40@...>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"

Hey Richard, thanks for your concern, the 138V sag was under a 200A load on a hill climb at the end of the run, the voltage quickly returns to 145 volts or so when the load is removed. Being out here in Southern California, the temperature drop in the winter isn't that big a deal. It was actually over 100 this past weekend. Things are supposed to cool off to a more reasonable 75 by this weekend. If the range does drop too much by winter when the pack is a bit older I might have to switch to the ICE. I have a deposit on an Aptera, they claim my number will come up in the last quarter of 2009. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they meet their production schedule.

>Hey
Tim,Glad to hear that it might work out for you. Better let up on the
hammer just a bit though. I show 138 volts as the 80% DoD point for
you.
>Keep working the route and the traffic pattern. How's this going
to work out for you in the winter when capacity is reduced?


     

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