Maintaining level horizon, vertical buildings

[JC Dill]

I'm new to Hugin.  I had some problems getting it installed and
working right with AutoPano SIFT but those problems are fixed now.  On
to making Panoramas!

I have 2 questions:

1)  How do I maintain vertical orientation of each image in the
panorama?  I'm stitching a panorama of San Francisco and the Golden
Gate, shot from Treasure Island.  The images were shot on a tripod and
each individual image is straight, but I'm having a hard time getting
the resulting panorama to A) maintain a straight horizon and B) keep
the buildings and bridges vertical.  I keep getting distortion at the
ends of the panorama. Is there a particular blend mode I should use
for this?

2)  Is there any difference between Stitch Now! (in the Stitcher
window) and Create Panorama (in the Assistant window)?

I'm using the latest build (hugin-0.7.0_rc6_mac.dmg), on a Mac OS X
10.5

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[Erik Krause]

Am Saturday, September 27, 2008 um 13:38 schrieb JC  Dill:

> The images were shot on a tripod and
> each individual image is straight, but I'm having a hard time getting
> the resulting panorama to A) maintain a straight horizon and B) keep
> the buildings and bridges vertical.

Use vertical line control points on the vertical structures and allow
optimization of Roll and Pitch for all images.

best regards
--
Erik Krause
Offenburger Str. 33
79108 Freiburg


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[John McAllister]

The 'straighten' command in the preview pane does a good job of getting
everything square.



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[J. Schneider-2]

John McAllister schrieb:
> The 'straighten' command in the preview pane does a good job of getting
> everything square.

Usually.
If not: It takes several undo commands to revert all steps that make up
the 'straighten' command (which is kind of a bug for me). But it is
worth a try and if it doesn't work, vertical controlpoint pairs every
other image are usually enough.

regards
Joachim

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[Dane-6]

>
> I'm having a hard time getting
> the resulting panorama to A) maintain a straight horizon and B) keep
> the buildings and bridges vertical.  I keep getting distortion at the
> ends of the panorama. Is there a particular blend mode I should use
> for this?
Try cylindrical from the previewer.(Try them all to see what they do)
Try horizontal control points on the horizon. If the horizon is not on
the center line in the preview window, click on (or very close to) the
horizon at the center, even if your camera was pointed above or below
the horizon.
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[Stephen-102]

I have been using Hugin for years with a canon 18-55mm lense, which
needed about 12 frames for a complete circle, and now use a canon
10-22mm lense, which needs about eight frames.

Especially with the new lense I found find the resulting panorama
'buckled' slightly into a wave..No amount of extra control points or
vertical lines will straighten it..  The solution for me appeared to
be to allow Hugin to optimise the lense's field of view parameter.  On
the optimise tab, select "Custom parameters below" and then check the
"view(v) " box. For the 10-22mm lense this typically reduces the the
FOV from 96 to 93, and gives a straight panorama.

I'm not sure if my problem is due to the nature of the Canon lense, or
distortion due to me hand-holding the camera..

Hope that between these replies you find an answer.

Regards
Stephen
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[John McAllister]

I use a Sigma 10-20mm lens and create "circumpix" using six images.
I have locked the lens down to 10mm and I always use the lens info file that
I have created, only optimising pitch, roll and yaw.
My pictures are always wavy in the preview, but the straighten command
always sorts it out.
Incidentally, I no longer use Autopano; I simply put in two or three CP
pairs per overlap by hand.
More CPs are only necessary if you can't provide lens distortion parameters
and an accurate FoV.

See what you think... http://www.panavista.eu/



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[J. Schneider-2]

Steeve schrieb:
> Especially with the new lense I found find the resulting panorama
> 'buckled' slightly into a wave..No amount of extra control points or
> vertical lines will straighten it..  The solution for me appeared to
> be to allow Hugin to optimise the lense's field of view parameter.  
This is probably due to slightly incorrect FOV in the EXIF data provided
in the header. (In particular too great: Hugin tries to "fit" more than
360 degrees into the circle.) That of your former lens happened to be
closer to the truth (or smaller) and therefore you didn't have the problem.

> Hope that between these replies you find an answer.
Your method solves the problem only for wavy horizons with this
particular cause. And this can happen only with 360° panoramas. So if
one has the problem with partial panos the caus must be different.

regards
Joachim

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[Erik Krause]

Am Monday, September 29, 2008 um 0:21 schrieb Steeve:

> I have been using Hugin for years with a canon 18-55mm lense, which
> needed about 12 frames for a complete circle, and now use a canon
> 10-22mm lense, which needs about eight frames.
>
> Especially with the new lense I found find the resulting panorama
> 'buckled' slightly into a wave..No amount of extra control points or
> vertical lines will straighten it..  The solution for me appeared to
> be to allow Hugin to optimise the lense's field of view parameter.

The wider a lens is the more exact the Field of View value must be.
This is because the perspective distortion in the image corners is
more prominent. As real focal length of a lens can differ up to 5%
from the real one you can easily get 9.5mm instead of 10mm.

Another reason is that lens correction changes the FoV. If your lens
suffers from barrel or pincushion distortion the necessary correction
might change the actual FoV more than 5%.

And last but not least FoV depends on focusing distance and on
aperture value - if you don't believe see this PDF:
http://tinyurl.com/d29lu 

best regards
--
Erik Krause
Offenburger Str. 33
79108 Freiburg


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[Rik Littlefield]

Erik Krause wrote:
> And last but not least FoV depends on focusing distance and on
> aperture value - if you don't believe see this PDF:
> http://tinyurl.com/d29lu 
>  
Erik, thanks for the reference to my paper.

A clarification, for people who don't have time to read the whole thing...

FoV does change with focusing distance in common situations that occur
in routine shooting.  As you focus closer, the FOV shrinks because the
lens moves away from the sensor.

But FoV is not affected by aperture value in most cases, only in rare
and extreme pathological cases that most shooters will avoid for other
reasons.

--Rik


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